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Lamu
Lamu, the
oldest living town in Kenya lies on Lamu Island in the northern corner
of Kenya. Lamu truly like a different country. More than 95% of the
locals are Muslim, and you’re just as likely to hear Arabic
as
Kiswahili.
Children play in the narrow streets, Muslim men chat on street corners
and women in their black buibui eils busy themselves through doorways.
Most houses have a rooftop which is used as a patio - indicative of a
society where 'hanging back' and 'catching the breeze' is important.
Lamu is strictly Islamic, so be sensitive in the way you dress.
The island is linked by ferry to Mokowe on the mainland and to Manda
Island. There is no motorized transport on Lamu Island. The road to
Lamu is rough and while there are buses, the journey is tedious. There
have also been armed attacks on this road in the past, so make
enquiries before heading off.
Flying is the best way to reach this region of Kenya and there are
affordable daily flights to Malindi.
There are two towns: Lamu Town, the larger one, is where most of the
official business takes place, and it has more shopping and hotels, but
no beach.
Although the best beach is in Shela, it's worth spending some time in
Lamu Town. Some of the island's best food is found at the
Seafront Cafe there. For about $5, the garlic crab is the
best on
the island.
The island has a long history and by the 1500s it was a thriving port,
exporting timber, ivory, amber, spices and slaves. When the Portuguese
arrived, it surrendered without a murmur and in the mid-1800s it became
a subject of the Sultanate of Zanzibar, which nominally controlled the
whole coastal strip until Kenya became independent in 1963.
Until the 19th century dawned, Lamu's economy was hinged on slave
labour and with the abolition of slavery it declined rapidly. That is
until the advent of tourists. In the 1960s Lamu was up there with
Katmandu as a hippy hangout and it has since been taken over by
tourists.
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